Scheduled to open this Wednesday at 4:00, my wife and I had a chance to preview the wonderful menu at Tipo last night. Walking in to the bright, modern restaurant, I was immediately impressed by how open and spacious it is compared to so many of Portland’s other area restaurants. Definitely a place that one could go to with a group of friends or a couple of kids in tow.
Tipo offers a full bar, plus a few well-built cocktails with ingredients that play to the restaurant’s Italian focus. I had the Il Moto. Served in a rocks glass, it was a soothing blend of Italian liquor and vermouth, with hints of apple and plum. My wife went for the Il Maglione, served up and made with egg white, this foamy delight tasted of cardamon and lemon. The restaurant also offers a nice selection of Italian beers and wines by the glass and bottle.
The food menu is divided into five sections: raw, plates, pasta, pizza, and dessert. As this was our first visit and a bit of a special occasion as Tipo wasn’t officially open yet, we decided to sample across the whole menu. However, I could easily also see this a great place to stop off for a glass of wine and a big bowl of pasta, or to pick up a pizza after work. The food was all so good and the menu so versitile.
Beginning with the raw, we ordered the sublime Maine scallop crudo. Bursting with fresh ocean flavor, and enhanced with Myer lemon, this dish was the one most reminiscent of owners Chris and Paige Gould’s acclaimed restaurant Central Provisions, but was still made unique by the addition of warm olive oil and bottarga (Italian cured fish roe). Also from the raw section of the menu, the beef carpaccio somehow managed to far exceed our expectations. So tender and flavorful, the beef was reminiscent of the finest prime rib, and the smoked onion aioli and arugula elevate the flavors to a whole new level.
Moving on to the plates portion of the menu, I had a hard time limiting myself: meatballs and gravy, hand-pulled mozzarella, and wood-roasted vegetables. It all sounded so amazing that I wanted to order everything! I can see myself going back to sample more heavily from this section. However, on this first visit, knowing I wanted to try both the pasta and pizza, we limited ourselves to adding the winter greens salad. I am glad we did because it was excellent. So simple, yet delicious! Crisp mixed greens in pancetta, frico (fried cheese crisp), black pepper, and plenty of parmesan. My wife and I devoured this crunchy, savory delight.
Then on to the pasta section of the menu–we were further impressed by the ability to order most of the offerings in either full or half sizes. Planning on also ordering a pizza, we settled in on the half-sized rye Cavatelli served with pork ragu, mascarpone, and oregano. I can’t stress how much I loved this–rich meaty flavors, combined with brilliant textures to yield pure joy!
At this point, you might think we would be so satiated to give up, but we bravely continued on so that we might share our experience with you, our dear readers. I am so glad we did because the pizza was fantastic! The crust is very thin, yet somehow manages to be light and fluffy at the same time. Each bite was a crispy, soft, charred pillow-top, with the most delightful flavors. We chose the lamb sausage version. With its middle eastern spices, plus feta and arugula, the pizza was both deeply satisfying and memorable. The same can be said for dessert, warm Zeppoli with peppered sugar, lemon, and ricotta. Combined with a cappuccino, this perfectly fried and spiced dough provided a sublime closure to our meal.
The following are photos from our fantastic New Year’s Eve dinner at Central Provisions. The evening’s menu was a preview of owners Chris and Paige Gould’s soon to open second restaurant Tipo, and the supremely talented Chef Mike Smith who will be overseeing its kitchen.
As I plan on visiting Tipo as soon as humanly possible, I will mostly (but not completely) let the photos from this brilliant dinner speak for themselves.
From the very first bites, it was clear that this pair of chefs really know how to meld contrasting textures and flavors in ways that build one upon the other, each bite a magical mélange: rapini with Spanish mackerel, mushroom ragu with chicory, dry-aged sirloin with charred traviso. So synergistically yummy!!
Then there was the pasta. While I generally don’t consider myself a pasta person, the ones pictured below had such wonderful substance, flavor, scents, that I not only found myself devouring them, but I very well may dream of them (at least until Tipo opens). Such simple dishes perfectly executed: corzetti with squash and sausage and tagliatelle with white truffles! So deeply satisfying, especially on on cold winter night!
Entering the newly renovated Danforth Inn to dine at Tempo Dulu is a magical experience. The noise from nearby State Street fades away, and then suddenly you’re someplace else. It’s like being swept away to a private club filled with expats gathered together in some distant eastern land. This is particularly true of the lounge area, which owner Oscar Verest says was inspired by the Weyang club in the Shanghai Hermes.
Décor aside, we had heard and read many good things about bartender Trevin Hutchins and made sure to leave time for a stop at the bar. I am so glad we did! The Jakarta made with: bourbon, amaro, sweet vermouth, and absinthe could have been merely enjoyable. Instead, due to a beautiful bit of theatre and food science, it was amazing! Trevin takes the extra step of applying fire to a substantial pile of Five Spice, which he then covers with a glass, putting out the fire and collecting the delicious smoke. The cocktail is poured into the smoke which somehow remains in place, creating a smoky, sweet, bourbon masterpiece. My cocktail was so good it inspired me to take my first video ever!
Having established that Tempo Dulu is a sanctuary designed to soothe and nourish the senses, we moved on to one of several small elegant dining rooms to begin our feasting. For our dining pleasure we chose to go with Chef Lawrence Klang’s tasting menu, a seemingly endless array of intense full-flavored dishes( menus). Overseen by Maître d’ Elizabeth Tozek, the service throughout our 3 hour experience was truly exceptional. Having consumed two bottles of water and one exceptional Maine wine (Cellar Door), my wife noted that service was so discreet that our glasses stayed full seemingly without any intervention.
Then there is the food! The wonderful food: foie gras, lamb, lobster, halibut, squid, and more in one meal! I could go on at length about the richness of the flavors (So rich!), the incredible textures and scents(OMG!), but I would need to write a book to do any justice to the 13 plus dishes we sampled. Instead I will say that I absolutely loved, loved my meal and left very happy, happy! Furthermore, despite its relatively high prices, I believe Temp Dulu to be a fantastic value!
A few photos from our evening out: